JalanJalan

Morning, Friday 11th January, 2008

A couple of weeks after the 3rd anniversary of the devastating tsunami of 26th Dec, 2004 (let’s call it “Tsunami“), we start our own journey of self-discovery to Aceh. We have been meaning to make this trip for a long time, and today, our AirAsia AK912 (Airbus A320, reg. 9M-AHD) departs on the dot at 1155h to take us to Banda Aceh (BTJ).

A shade over an hour later, the plane passes the northern tip of Sumatra, where the Andaman Sea meets the Indian Ocean, …

… and promptly makes a sharp U-turn above the water to land at BTJ from the north. We have our first view of Tsunami-ravaged coastline, now much-improved.

In blue, the actual GPS trace of the flght path from KUL to BTJ. Note the U-turn in the sea before landing at BTJ.

As we approach the airport, we see new housing estates for Tsunami victims, thanks to aid money.

More new houses further inland, safer from future tsunamis too.

Beautiful countryside with checkered rice-fields broken by villages hidden among lush coconut groves. The Tsunami did not get here.

Soon we are on the ramp, as dark clouds roll in.

The airport is named after the most illustrious ruler of Aceh, Sultan Iskandarmuda, who ruled Aceh in early 17th century when it was at its peak as a regional power (he conquered most of peninsular Malaysia then, and also fought the Portuguese).

It’s quite a long walk to the arrival hall …

… which is just a small building (behind the floodlight mast) providing CIQ and baggage retrieval. Soon our queue of 170-odd people from the plane spills onto the tarmac out in the open. Luckily the weather is good.

It is Friday noon and the men-folk are at the mosques for Friday prayer. Soon we are in the quiet city centre, and promptly checks into Hotel Sultan. We are on the 4th floor of a 5-storey building. That’s about as high as a building gets in this quake-prone country.

After a short breather, we venture out for lunch, and we spot a familiar face.

A recently-open KFC outlet looks really hip, and maybe because the guys are still at the mosques, the patrons are mainly girls, virtually all with head-covers.

After lunch, we see a ‘putu bambu’ stall.

It’s putu, a sweet cake made of coconut and rice, steamed in bamboo. Yummy local delicacy! Originating from India, must have been introduced to Aceh when the traders from the west arrived here centuries ago.

Nearby, we spot an exact replica of our beloved Old Faithful in Shah Alam - been with us since 1997 - as old as Aina.

This is a famous Banda Aceh landmark, the ‘Simpang Lima’ - a junction of five roads. Very pretty now, but see related Tsunami video HERE. Caution: some scenes may be disturbing.

And at this junction, we see a poignant reminder. “Giving money to child-beggars is akin to destroying their future.”

There’s also an military installation between the Simpang Lima and the river, where I find this interesting old Dutch-era house.

Yes, the occasional soldiers still roam the street, a relic of an armed conflict between pro-independence Free Aceh Movement and the Govt between 1976-2005, at the cost of some 15,000 lives. It took the Tsunami to bring peace to Aceh.

Although Aceh boasts of 99% Muslims and dubbed ‘The Veranda of Mecca’, Catholics are free to practise.

Icons of post-Tsunami progress along Jalan Panglima Polim, here …

… and here.

Banda Aceh is split into two by Aceh river, and this is the main bridge which proudly proclaims: ‘Banda Aceh, City of Believers.’

Looking west as Aceh river flows towards the sea, some 5km away. This waterway was full of dead bodies, damaged boats and debris when hit by the Tsunami.

We cross the river and head for the Grand Mosque, the famous Baiturrahman Mosque.

Tucked at the side of the mosque, a cramped Aceh Market.

A popular side entrance to the mosque compound. Note the reminder on dress code.

Past the entrance, a gent proudly gestures to a plaque. Death of a Dutch army chief when he led an attack on the mosque in 1873, but the original mosque built 13th century was burnt down.

Facade of the mosque with the setting sun behind. Built 1879 by the Dutch, six years after the original was destroyed by them, as a mark of reconciliation. Designed by Italian architect, with Moghul Indian influences.

In front of the mosque, a grand gate and lone 35-metre minaret, slightly tilting due to quakes.

Frontal view. The Tsunami water lapped the mosque, but never went inside. The compound was full of dead bodies and debris. See related Tsunami video HERE. Caution: some scenes may be disturbing.

Another view of the gate and the minaret.

At the periphery of the mosque, there’s a drain with continuously running water. You leave your footwear next to it, dip and cleanse your feet in the drain before taking the steps up the mosque.

Of course, kids, being kids, will play anywhere.

On the verandah, an informal religious class for ladies is in progress.

Inside the mosque, class for kids takes place. The people have truly made the mosque the centre for communal activities, the way it should be.

Southern side of the mosque.

We then find our way into the claustrophobic and stuffy Aceh Market.

We spot a bargain, but soon realise that there are very little stuff made here in Aceh - most are imported from other parts of Sumatra, notably Medan. The province is still economically weak.

Outside the market, there are stalls selling the same stuff …

… which is a mixture of pinang, gambir, kapur, spices, etc, all wrapped inside a sirih leaf. Chew the whole thing for sheer pleasure.

It’s getting dark and as we head for home, we pop into a cafe for a taste of local es teler, something I first discovered in Bali. It’s a heavenly concoction of coconut milk + coconut flesh + avocado + jackfruit + sweetener + other stuff, all immersed in ice flakes. Simply delicious!

And in the streets, ladies find their way home, some on taxi-bikes.

To be continued at the next chapter …