JalanJalan

27: Malaysia > Sabah > Sulu Sea

Published by naim

Morning, 23rd June 2007. The early morning bad weather clears up and soon we leave Seafest Hotel in our wake.

Overtaking a bunch of cool dudes atop a chugging boat. I wonder who’s driving?

A wooden structure under construction in the sea. It’s still very shallow water here, and floating restaurants cum fish-farms are common.

We speed on to our fishing spot, and in the choppy water, I get splashed all over.

First stop and the crew get busy. We are bobbing like a cork in the Sulu Sea, 16km away from Semporna,.

From our spot, Bodgaya Island is some 10km away.

Next to Bodgaya, fish-farms on stilts dot the horizon.

On the other side, 5km out in the open sea, mysterious tiny Sibuan Island beckons. I’m actually more interested in this place than the fishing bit, and the critters ain’t biting either!

The maestro tries his best, but to little avail. Noon and we’re getting restless.

Common sense soon prevails, and we head for Sibuan Island.

Attempting a beach landing. This is looking like paradise.

Boat secured and I jump off, while Mr D checks the water out.

Yes, this is PARADISE!

The island seems elongated, and I stroll along the beach facing the open sea, which is steep and rough.

Glancing to my right, I see Bodgaya Island.

Nestled among the coconut palms, a small Bajau settlement.

Close-up of the Bajau houses.

Looking back, I see the sandy spit where we landed. Semporna is 20km away in that direction.

The Bajaus are seafaring people, and boats are their multipurpose vehicles.

Crossing seas in tiny dugout canoes is not a problem. Obviously these boats came from places with huge trees, definitely not Sibuan.

The Bajau house is made of stuff from the palm trees.

It may look flimsy but must have been tough enough to withstand storms from the Sulu Sea.

Nearby a really worn-out boat is moored.

I chat up a friendly Bajau man who just arrived in his green catamaran. Rowing or sailing his boat 20km to Semporna for supplies is no big deal, he claims. Tough man.

Pretty as it looks, Sibuan’s saline ‘freshwater’ is only good for washing. Drinkable water must be sought from larger islands or from Semporna.

In the hot tropical sun, water is very important.

8km away, Bodgaya looks majestic. Maybe there’s drinkable water there.

A bikini-clad visitor frolics in the water. I don’t think this is appropriate - she should have respected local customs. The Bajau man expresses his displeasure.

But he sure has the best spot in the world!

Of course, we cannot resist a dip ourselves.

Minus Mr D, who takes a nap in the boat. It’s amazing that our toupées have not floated away. Btw, watch that huge croc and the topless underwater shot! pics by azamlatiff.

We pull anchor and speed away, and I notice two people in army fatigues at the end of the sandy spit. So there’s an army outpost here on Sibuan, which is logical considering this place is exposed to the notorious part of the Sulu Sea.

I’ve never been to any island as beautiful as this before. Sibuan is indeed close to paradise on earth. Great decision in making the lunchtime visit.

Many km out at sea, we spot a Bajau man bailing water out his boat. We go to help, but he says, no problem.

And he is soon on his merry way, paddling his boat in the middle of nowhere. And here I am, wearing a lifevest on a sturdy fibre boat with 2 engines, still feeling uneasy. Put me in that boat, I’d surely freak out!

We resume our business of fishing.

Then I hear somebody singing in the distance, and with my zoom lens spotted this lonely Bajau bobbing in the choppy sea. Another brave soul! He’s probably 5km away from the nearest land.

It has not been good fishing, so we decide to call it a day as the sun sets.

Along the way, more fish-farms next to Bodgaya Island.

We decide to have dinner at a restaurant cum fish-farm in the sea. A protected fish-enclosure is in the middle, and for a fee you can dive or snorkel among the critters.

Some of the captives.

Corals in pristine water surround the site.

The restaurant.

There are chalets too.

And of course, fish-farms at the back.

One of the guard dogs, to protect the property against intruders. New meaning to the term ’sea-dog’. Looks harmless, but the owner assures me he’s vicious. I do not hang around to test.